MyPin TD4-SNR with PT100 Wiring Diagram

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Also, in order to autotune your PID, press and hold the SET key until the PV changes to HIAL, then press the SET key multiple times until you see CtrL, then press the down arrow once to set it to 2 instead of 3. With that out of the way, let's get started.... If there is a boil over and I couldn't contain it, I could flip the heat off and kill all power to the element.

I can't link to the source because of the no-link policy here, but I found a bullet making forum they use these things to melt lead too where a guy was in touch with MYPIN and got this response:' I have been in touch with Mypin recently. I regret not going with an auber pid. If so, then I'd still try to recirculate throughout the whole mash and see what that does.

Help with Mypin TD4-SNR PID. Overshooting temp by large amount

Posted Apr 30, 2017 Before I set my house on fire, I wanted to verify things look good to accomplish the following: 1. To boil, I would set the TD4 into manual mode, and set my temperature for boiling which would use the SSR to turn on a 1500w element. AL 1 would manage the cooling pump after flame out. AL 1 is a 3amp relay so this should be fine, no secondary SSR needed. Is this possible in this manner? Also, any help wiring in a small computer fan into this setup would be really valuable! Posted Apr 30, 2017 Do you have a function description of the three button switch? How, and under what conditions, do you see the fan operating? Brew on Do you have a function description of the three button switch? How, and under what conditions, do you see the fan operating? Brew on Click to expand... Thanks for the quick reply Doug. Power - The power switch just turns on the PID which is effectively the master power switch as the user can't use anything else without the PID being on. If there is a boil over and I couldn't contain it, I could flip the heat off and kill all power to the element. This is much faster than using the PID. During the boil, the power and heat switches are on the cooling is off. After the boil, the cooling switch is turned on and all three switches stay on for the duration of the fermentation. Ideally the fan would only be on when the heating element the SSR is on. It's a DC 12v. Posted May 1, 2017 Ok. Looks like it should work, as long as you know how to set up the alarm programming on the MyPin. You don't want to be cycling the fan with the SSR, as the cycle time and number of cycles will wear the fan out in short order. I would suggest having the fan on whenever the heater switch is on. So, wire the 120V AC inputs of a 12V power supply between terminal 2 of the SSR and neutral. Brew on Thanks for the quick reply Doug. Power - The power switch just turns on the PID which is effectively the master power switch as the user can't use anything else without the PID being on. If there is a boil over and I couldn't contain it, I could flip the heat off and kill all power to the element. This is much faster than using the PID. During the boil, the power and heat switches are on the cooling is off. After the boil, the cooling switch is turned on and all three switches stay on for the duration of the fermentation. Ideally the fan would only be on when the heating element the SSR is on. It's a DC 12v. You just had to go and ruin all the fun with your logic didn't you?! I appreciate you looking at this in detail. All of the wiring diagrams I've seen for 120v are wired similar to this, they just include an 'E-Stop'. This 'E-Stop' is effectively the 'Heat' switch in my setup. I haven't seen a PID wiring diagram where if the SSR were to fail open the system would automatically know and cut all of the power see attached. Maybe I haven't looked hard enough. Would a Normally Closed buzzer between the heat and the power be an idea? I just can't source a NC buzzer Any help? Should I go to a two switch outlet? I don't think the diagram below would solve the SSR issue. I did add the fan and a fuse. Posted May 5, 2017 What's the black jumper across the back of the switch for? In the designs I create, I like to have power provided to the controller PID, EZBoil, etc. This gives you a chance to make sure the state of the controller is such that you won't get unexpected element firing immediately on powering up the controller. The design below shows this. The main power switch applies power to the controller, but elements can be off when the controller is on. It's not possible to power the elements without the controller being on in case of an SSR failure. It's possible with a little more complexity to make sure that the main power cannot even be turned on if the element enable switch is on I have published examples of this type of design as well. Brew on Posted May 5, 2017 The black jumper provides power to the bottom switch when the top switch is turned on. To turn the cooling on, the PID would have to be Powered on. I'm sort of guessing this is how it works The difference between the 3 switch and the diagram above appears to be the contactor which looks like it closes the heating element circuit from power by the coil when the Elements Lighted Switch Auber SW1 or SW16 is turned on. Should the SSR fail closed it wouldn't matter bc the coil to the contactor is Normally Open. With that being said, this setup below seems to accomplish virtually the same thing. When power is on, the jumper then enables the heat to be turned on. When the heat is on, it powers the SSR. This way, if the power is off and the heat is on, there is no current flowing. The cooling no longer has a switch, but it takes power from the jumper when the PID is turned on. When the AL 1 temperature is met, it then closes the circuit and the water pump is turned on. I hope I have this figured out! Thanks for your time and expertise! Support Homebrew Talk Thank you for visiting Homebrew Talk. Ads help to support this site and we would appreciate if you would turn off AdBlocker for Homebrew Talk. To do that, click on the AdBlock icon and disable it for Homebrew Talk. Become a supporting member instead. Supporting members have ability to turn off most advertisements among other benefits, such as Supporting Member moniker, access to private forums, unlimited attachment and private message space.

But if they screwed up thousands of labels, that's not a free fix. This is a 1995 Chris Craft 197 Concept Bowrider. During the boil, the power and heat switches are on the cooling is off. The terminal pin out designations for terminals 7 through 9 are totally different from the factory PDF schematic. Cartridge Overall Length PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer File SBT Spitzer Boat Tail LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter GC Gas Check. Brew on Do you have a function description of the three button switch. When the heat is on, it powers the SSR. I regret not north with an auber pid. It can indeed do both auto or manual. It's not possible to power the elements without the controller being on in case of an SSR failure. Oops wasn't mypin td4-snr manual, sorry.